Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Simplicity 2188 Sew-Along - part 5

 If you're just joining us, please take a look at part 1, 2, 3, and 4.

And so we come to part 5; neckline facings.

What are facings?  A facing is a piece of fabric that is applied to the edge of a garment and then pressed to the inside, leaving a nice, finished edge.  They're usually applied to necklines, armholes, and waistlines (if you're making a skirt or pants), but may be used in other places as well. 

To begin, apply the fusible interfacing you cut out earlier to the WRONG side of pieces 3 and 4, following the manufacturers instructions.  If' you've misplaced the instructions, there's a good tutorial here.

With RIGHT sides together, match the short ends or pieces 3 and 4 using notches.


Press your seams open.  Here's what it should look like from the wrong side:
And here's what it should look like from the right side:

Finish the un-notched edge (so, the outer edge) of your facing.

With RIGHT sides together, pin the facing to your neckline, matching up the shoulder seams and notches.
 Here's a slightly better view of how the shoulder seams match up:
Stitch.  Take your time!  You don't have to go fast.  I know it can be a little tricky sewing this part for the first time.  Just go slowly, and keep your eye on that 5/8" mark.
Trim your seam and clip the curves.   

Trimming will reduce some of the bulk created by the multiple layers:
 and clipping will help create a nice, smooth curve on your neckline.  Just use the tip of your scissors, and cut a little slash up to (but not over!) your stitching line.

You should end up with this:
I went a little crazy with the clipping.  You don't have to clip as much as I did, but it won't hurt anything.

Press the facing away from your garment, and press the seam toward the facing.  

Stitch close to the seam, through the facing and seam allowance.  This is called understitching, and it helps keep the facing inside your garment.
I know it's tough to see the understitching among the other stitching, but it's there!

Press the facing to the inside of your garment.
It should look like this when you're done pressing:
Flip the garment right side out, and give it another good press around the neckline.  It should look something like this:
 Just look at that nice, smooth, finished neckline!  It's like magic.

That's it!  You've just made it through the neckline facing.  Give yourself a pat on the back!  Now would be a great time to try your top on and see if it needs any taking in at the sides.  This design is pretty loose and blousy, but you can certainly make it a little closer fitting.  Just don't take it in too much, or you won't be able to slip it on and off.

We're almost there!  The final post will cover tacking and hems, and then we're done!

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